
Scenic drive
M-119 Tunnel of Trees Scenic Heritage Route
A narrow, winding stretch of M-119 along the Lake Michigan shoreline north of Harbor Springs toward Cross Village, made for a slow drive.
Charlevoix & Petoskey · Emmet County
The tiny Lake Michigan village at the north end of the M-119 Tunnel of Trees, with Legs Inn, a beach at the old port and centuries of Odawa history.
Cross Village is where the Tunnel of Trees ends: a handful of streets on a bluff over Lake Michigan, at the north end of M-119. Most people drive up from Harbor Springs, have a meal, look at the lake and head back. That is a fine plan, and worth slowing down for.
The meal is usually at Legs Inn. Stanley Smolak, a Polish immigrant who settled here in 1921, built it in the 1930s with Odawa and other local workers from timber and stone gathered nearby, and carved the furniture out of roots and driftwood. The name comes from the old stove legs along the roofline. It serves Polish food from late May to late October, does not take reservations and does not allow pets, so check the season before you drive up.
The village is older than it looks. It began as Waganakisis, an Odawa village whose name means crooked tree, and the township calls it one of the oldest settlements in Michigan. It was known as L’Arbre Croche and then La Croix before taking the name Cross Village in 1875. By the early 1900s it was a lumber and fishing town with hotels, stores and schools, until a fire in September 1918 burned most of it; only Holy Cross Church survived. The township’s walking tour starts at the marker by the large white cross and covers 10 sites, Legs Inn among them.
For the water, follow Waterfront Drive down to the beach at the old Port of Cross Village. About 1.7 miles south on M-119, Little Traverse Conservancy’s Woollam Family Nature Preserve has a short trail of about half a mile through hilly woods to 3,300 feet of Lake Michigan shore; dogs are not allowed because of nesting birds. North of the village, the North Country Trail crosses the wooded dunes of Sturgeon Bay toward Wilderness State Park and Mackinaw City.
There is no fuel along the Tunnel of Trees, but Cross Village has a gas station, so you can top up before the drive back.
Cross Village is the reward at the end of the Tunnel of Trees. Have a late lunch at Legs Inn in season, walk the short historic tour from the white cross on the bluff, then go down to the beach at the old port or out to the Lake Michigan shore at the Woollam preserve. It is a small, quiet place, so come for an afternoon rather than a weekend of things to do.
How to plan a Cross Village afternoon: the Tunnel of Trees drive, Legs Inn in season, the historic walking tour and Lake Michigan beaches nearby.
Cross Village is a tiny lakeshore village at the north end of the Tunnel of Trees, and the drive is most of the point. Come for an afternoon: lunch at Legs Inn in season, a short walk through the village’s history, and some time on the Lake Michigan shore. Between late October and late May, with Legs Inn closed, there is very little here beyond the scenery.
Most people arrive on M-119 from Harbor Springs, about 20 narrow, winding miles with no center line and plenty of cyclists. Read our Tunnel of Trees route before you go. There is no fuel or EV charging along the way and very few public restrooms, so plan stops; Cross Village does have a gas station. Much of the land along the road is private, so park only where it is marked. State Road is the inland way back south toward Petoskey.
Once you are here, the village is small enough to walk.
Legs Inn. The one restaurant in the village, and the reason many people make the drive. It serves Polish food and draft beer in a 1930s building of local stone and timber, with an outdoor garden for dining. It lists a season from late May to late October, does not take reservations and does not allow pets. Days and hours are limited, so check before you go.
Otherwise, the village has a convenience store. For more choice, eat in Harbor Springs before or after the drive.
Legs Inn rents a few lakeside cottages in the woods with beach access; contact it directly. For hotels and inns, stay in Harbor Springs or Petoskey: see the Harbor Springs guide and places to stay in Harbor Springs.
Drive the Tunnel of Trees. Take it slowly, ideally on a weekday. Fall color is the busiest time, especially on weekends.
Lunch at Legs Inn. Look for the stove legs along the roofline that give it the name, and the carved roots and driftwood inside, the work of Stanley Smolak, who built the inn with Odawa and other local workers. It is a State of Michigan historic site.
Walk the historic tour. Start at the marker beside the large white cross on the bluff. The township’s tour covers 10 sites, from the Odawa village of Waganakisis to the 1918 fire that burned most of the town, and a QR code links the map.
Go down to the old port. From Legs Inn, Waterfront Drive leads to the beach at the Port of Cross Village.
Walk to the lake at the Woollam preserve. About 1.7 miles south on M-119, a trail of roughly half a mile runs through hilly woods to 3,300 feet of Lake Michigan shoreline. No dogs, because of nesting birds.
Hike a piece of the North Country Trail. The North Country Trail runs through this corner of Emmet County, over the forested dunes of Sturgeon Bay and through Wilderness State Park toward Mackinaw City.
A half day. Drive up from Harbor Springs in the late morning, have lunch at Legs Inn, walk the historic tour and drive back.
A day. Add the Woollam preserve and an hour on the beach at the old port, then take State Road back south.
With kids, try the beach at the old port, the short woods walk at the Woollam preserve and the children’s play area by the old schoolhouse. On a rainy day, Legs Inn’s carved interior is the main indoor draw in season.
Late May through October, when Legs Inn is open. Summer is the easy choice. Fall color is the prettiest and the busiest; come midweek. In May, the Zoo-de-Mack bike ride comes through on its way from Harbor Springs to Mackinaw City, so expect a crowd of cyclists that weekend.
Harbor Springs and Petoskey are south for downtowns, beaches and lodging. Mackinaw City is to the north, and the village sits at the southern end of Wilderness State Park, which protects more than 10,000 acres.
Hours, menus and schedules change, so check with each place before you go.
In May, the Zoo-de-Mack bike ride rolls through the Tunnel of Trees to Cross Village on its way from Harbor Springs to Mackinaw City.
Summer is when Cross Village is most alive. Legs Inn opens from late May to late October, and its garden dining looks out toward the lake. The Redpath Church on North Lakeshore Drive holds weekly services from Memorial Day to Labor Day.
Fall color brings the heaviest traffic on the Tunnel of Trees, so come on a weekday if you can. Legs Inn's season runs to late October.

Scenic drive
A narrow, winding stretch of M-119 along the Lake Michigan shoreline north of Harbor Springs toward Cross Village, made for a slow drive.
Trail
The national scenic trail's long run up the west side of northern Michigan: Manistee National Forest, the Jordan River Valley, Petoskey and Mackinaw City.

Great Lake
The big lake that shapes this coast: state park and town beaches from Grand Haven to Charlevoix, harbor towns with city marinas, and pier lights to walk out to.
Courses in town or within about 15 miles (straight line), ranked courses first.
Private club · 18 holes · Harbor Springs
Golf Digest Best Golf Courses in Michigan 2025-26 (No. 10)
A private Jim Engh course in the forest north of Harbor Springs, with big elevation changes and holes set apart from one another.
Charlevoix & Petoskey
Public · Harbor Springs
Golf Digest Best Golf Courses in Michigan 2025-26 (No. 25, The Heather)
The Highlands resort near Harbor Springs has four 18-hole courses, including The Heather and Arthur Hills, plus a lit par-3 short course.
Charlevoix & Petoskey
Public · 18 holes · Harbor Springs
An 18-hole course east of Harbor Springs that winds through wooded ground past log homes, built by Larry Mancour.
Charlevoix & Petoskey
Semi-private · 18 holes · Harbor Springs
A historic semi-private course on Harbor Point with Lake Michigan views, open to public play in late spring and early fall.
Charlevoix & Petoskey
There is no downtown in the usual sense. The township lists a restaurant, a convenience store with gas, and an art studio, and most of what you will want is within a short walk of Legs Inn.
Distances are straight-line estimates from map coordinates, not driving distances.

Charlevoix & Petoskey
For history, harbor views and the Tunnel of Trees: a small town on the north shore of Little Traverse Bay, with two ski areas nearby for winter.
About 15 miles away (straight line)

Charlevoix & Petoskey
A walkable bay town for stone hunting, shopping the Gaslight District and riding the Little Traverse Wheelway, with historic Bay View next door.
About 20 miles away (straight line)

Mackinac & Straits
The base for the Straits, beside the Mackinac Bridge at the tip of the Lower Peninsula, with a reconstructed colonial fort and ferries to Mackinac Island.
About 20 miles away (straight line)
Ski area
A ski resort near Harbor Springs with 55 runs on 435 acres and 552 feet of vertical, plus Nordic trails, and a bike park, hiking and golf in summer.
About 15 miles away (straight line)
Ski area
A family-owned ski hill near Harbor Springs with 53 runs on 248 acres, 427 feet of vertical, terrain parks and night skiing.
About 15 miles away (straight line)
Beach
A dog-friendly beach on Little Traverse Bay near downtown Harbor Springs, with free parking, a restroom and an easy kayak launch.
About 15 miles away (straight line)
Map of Cross Village
4 places on an OpenStreetMap map
Search all hotels in Cross Village: Booking.com · Expedia · Hotels.com · Google Hotels
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Estimated drive times from OpenStreetMap routing data, without traffic or stops.
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