Beulah

Beulah is the easy way into Crystal Lake. The village sits at the lake’s shallow east end, with a sandy public beach a short walk from a small downtown of shops and places to eat, and the Betsie Valley Trail running through. It is a small town, so one day covers it well: swim, ride, eat pie. Stay longer if you want the lake itself.

Getting there and getting around

US-31 runs north and south through the village. By our routing estimates, the drive takes about 2 hours 40 minutes from Grand Rapids, about 4 hours 50 minutes from Detroit and about 6 hours from Chicago. See getting here for the routes.

The nearest airline airport is Cherry Capital Airport in Traverse City, about 50 minutes away by our estimate. Private pilots can land at Frankfort Dow Memorial Field, about 12 minutes away.

Downtown, the beach and the village park sit close together, so park once and walk. Bring or rent a bike for the trail.

Where to eat

Beulah eats casual, and most of it is on or near Benzie Boulevard:

• The Cherry Hut. The sweet stop and a Beulah classic, on US-31 since 1935 and in business since 1922. Come for cherry pie with the smiling face cut into the crust, plus cherry chicken salad, cherry-ade and a turkey dinner. It is summer only, opening in May and closing in October; check the dates.
• L’Chayim Delicatessen. A New York-style deli with its own bagel bakery, known for its house-baked bagels, deli sandwiches and cookies. The Beulah shop lists itself as open year-round, which makes it the breakfast and picnic stop.
• Five Shores Brewing. A brewery in the old arched-roof Quonset building beside the Cold Creek pond, named for the five Great Lakes. Good for a beer after a ride.
• Cold Creek Inn. A downtown restaurant a block from the lake, listed for prime rib, planked whitefish, perch and pizza, with a Friday fish fry it tells you to arrive early for.
• Lucky Dog Bar & Grille. A bar and grill in the village’s former bowling alley, known for flame-grilled burgers, tacos and slow-smoked wings, with a long list of craft taps.

Where to stay

In the village, Crystal Lake Resort has lake-view motel rooms and cottages on the east end, with a private beach and a short walk into town. On the north shore, Chimney Corners Resort has cottages, apartments and lodge rooms on its own beach, with a listed season of May through October. For skiing or golf, Crystal Mountain in Thompsonville is a four-season resort.

For the full list, see places to stay in Beulah, or base yourself in Frankfort for more choice.

Our picks

Beulah Public Beach The village beach on the northwest side of town has several hundred feet of sand, a marked swim area over a sandy bottom, a beach house, a playground and tennis courts. The shaded village park next door suits a picnic. Swimmer’s itch has come back on Crystal Lake in recent summers, so check the lake association’s updates before a beach day.

Paddling and boating on Crystal Lake The east-end beach is the easy launch for kayaks and paddleboards, which rent in Beulah, and Crystal Lake Marina rents pontoons and fishing boats in summer. The lake runs east to west and takes Lake Michigan winds head on, so check the wind before you head out. Wash any boat that has been in other water in the last 10 days; the townships require it.

Betsie Valley Trail The trail runs through Beulah on its 22-mile route between Frankfort and Thompsonville, with one stretch along the Crystal Lake shore. Leave the dog behind for the section between Mollineaux Road and Beulah, where dogs are not allowed.

Downtown and Music in the Park Browse the shops, including Northern Décor for gifts, then stay for Music in the Park, the free weekly concerts that usually run from July into August.

Golf Crystal Lake Golf Club, Pinecroft and Champion Hill are close to Beulah, and Crystal Mountain has two courses.

One day, and two days

One day. Bagels at L’Chayim, then the morning at the village beach. Lunch and a slice of pie at the Cherry Hut. Ride the Betsie Valley Trail along the lake in the afternoon, and finish with dinner downtown and a beer at Five Shores.

Two days. Spend the second day on the water: rent a kayak or a pontoon if the wind is calm. Or drive to Frankfort for the Lake Michigan beach and Point Betsie; see our Frankfort guide.

With kids, and on a rainy day

With kids. The beach has the marked swim area and a playground, and the flat trail suits kids on bikes.

On a rainy day. COGNiTiON, a hands-on science and discovery center on US-31, lets kids handle animals and try a maker space. Just south in Benzonia, the Benzie Area Historical Museum covers logging, shipping and the car ferries in an 1887 church. Check both for hours.

Best time to go

July and August are the beach months. The Beulah Art Fair fills the village park on the first Saturday after the Fourth of July, and the Crystal Lake Team Marathon circles the lake on the second Saturday in August.

Spring and fall are for anglers, who fish from the beach area for rainbow trout, lake trout and coho salmon. In early fall the Cherry Hut stays open into October; check its closing date before you plan around pie.

Winter

Beulah Winterfest on the second Saturday in February is the winter day to come: outhouse races, a frozen fish toss, a chili cook-off and fireworks over the lake. Otherwise winter means ice fishing for perch, about 135 miles of county snowmobile trails and skiing at Crystal Mountain. Many seasonal places close, so check before you drive over.

Hours, menus and schedules change, so check with each place before you go.